Steps to solder components in order for OSC 4.3 ____________________________________________ Please look the board over carefully and read the instructions and parts list to familiarize yourself with the assembly procedure before you begin. Please also familiarize yourself with transistor orientation: looking at the front (flat side), the three leads are, left to right: emitter, base, collector. All the transistors except Q11 are facing the same way on the board, with all the emitters closer to the IC’s. A diode has a + and - side, and IC's are marked on one end with a small indented "notch". The IC sockets are also notched. Electrolytic (cylindrical shape) capacitors have a + & - side . Solder all components on the bottom of the board, and insert the wires through holes & solder to bottom of board. Part 1 : High Voltage supply D1 - 1N4007 diode NOTE ORIENTATION R1 - 10 ohm , 3 W resistor ( brown black black ) D3 - 1N4007 diode NOTE ORIENTATION C1 - 4.7 uF , 450 V capacitor , NOTE ORIENTATION + - C4 - 4.7 uF , 450 V capacitor , NOTE ORIENTATION + - P2 - 1M ohm potentiometer (105), DON’T SOLDER WIPER YET P1 - 1M ohm potentiometer , DON’T SOLDER WIPER YET P3 - (top adjust) - 50Kohm (503) or 47Kohm (473) potentiometer, .25W DON’T SOLDER WIPER YET R3 - 470K ohm, ½ W ( yellow purple yellow ) or may be marked ‘470K ‘ Neon bulb (HV indicator) R37 - 10M ohm resistor ( brown black blue ) F1 - fuse or fuse holder & bus fuse. 4 pin jumper - only necessary to switch between 120VAC (U.S.) and 240VAC (some other countries) - If this is not necessary, you may solder a small jumper to the appropriate holes (120 or 240, marked) to make a permanent connection. Solder 8” of ~18 gauge wire with black insulation to Fuse input marked "HOT" (left side, end of Fuse closer to X1). Solder 8” of ~18 gauge wire with white insulation to NEUTRAL Transformer - Primary (1,2,3,4) side is next to fuse, secondaries (5,6,7,8) should line up w/ the holes next to the edge insert a temporary jumper (do not solder) into the lower left holes of the relay like this > (Please also see Jumper.jpg) _______ |oo oo | | | |->|oo oo | | | | |->|ooo oo | |_______| Connect black wire to an AC cord hot and white wire to neutral, plug into wall outlet & test for HV Neon light should be on . Test for ~300 VDC at C6 - and R8 + , with C6 negative & R8 positive Test for ~300VDC at G (next to neon) , and C6 -, with G negative & C6 - positive If this step checks ok, disconnect the power cord & proceed to Part 2, if you are adding the battery backup option, do the following first: Relay2 - the coil goes toward C1 & C4 78L05 - 100ma 5VDC regulator R102 - 470 ohm resistor D223 - 1N4001 diode LED - note orientation 9VDC IN - leads of 9V battery connector, note + & - Part 2 : Low voltage supply & wave shaper, relay control S3 - tactile pushbutton switch ( toggle display on / off ) Relay - ORIENT CORRECTLY - it only fits correctly one way R38 - 2.2 K ohm , ¼ watt ( red red red ) Q7 - 2N3904 NPN transistor ORIENT correctly - emitter should be next to Q7 R33 - 10 K ohm , ¼ W , ( brown black orange ) B1 - full wave rectifier bridge NOTE ORIENTATION ( it has - & + ) R14 - 100K ohm , ¼ W ( brown black yellow ) C6 - 1,000 uF, 16 V+ cap NOTE ORIENTATION R29 - 1K ohm , ¼ W D56 - 1N4001 diode NOTE ORIENTATION R27 - 10 K ohm , ¼ W ( brown black orange ) Q8 - 2N3904 transistor , collector should be at Q8 D9 - 1N4001 diode NOTE ORIENTATION P6 (side adjust) - 50K ohm side adjust potentiometer ( x centering ) , these don’t go all the way through the holes , ok to solder on top of board P7 (side adjust) - 50K ohm pot ( y center ) C22 - .01 uF ( 103 ) cap C10 - 100 uF , 10 V cap NOTE ORIENTATION R26 - 470 ohm , ¼ W or 10K for less brightness LED - NOTE ORIENTATION , long lead is anode ( + ) 7805 - 5V regulator NOTE ORIENTATION When it’s plugged in, the LED should light. Test for low voltage at C44 (+5V), right side should be negative, left side 5V positive. Test the relay control by carefully touching a jumper wire to R33 ( the end away from the transistor ) and the positive side (left side) of C44. The relay will click and the neon bulb should light . If this checks ok, go to part 3. If you got this far with it, congrats, you now have a high voltage supply, low voltage supply, wave shaping circuit and relay control circuit. The rest of the build should be easy : ) . Part 3 Q11 - MPSA92 (or KSP92) PNP transistor NOTE : This is the only transistor on the board that the flat side faces opposite of the rest (the collector is closer to the IC’s) R36 - 47K ohm resistor ( yellow purple orange ) R35 - 10 K ohm resistor ( brown black orange ) Q10 - MPSA44 (or ksp44) NPN transistor Q1 - MPSA44 NPN transistor R99 - For a DG7-32 crt- 330K ohm resistor ( orange orange yellow ) , For a 2BP1 crt - 220K ohm ( red red yellow ) R4 - For a DG7-32 crt- 330K ohm resistor ( orange orange yellow ) , For a 2BP1 crt - 220K ohm ( red red yellow ) R6 - 180 K ohm resistor ( brown grey yellow ) R8 - 180 K ohm resistor ( brown grey yellow ) P4 - 50 K ohm, .12W potentiometer (503) (top adjust, next to Q1) ( ok to solder on top of board ) Q2 - MPSA44 NPN transistor R10 - 10 K ohm resistor ( brown black orange ) R9 - 10 K ohm resistor ( brown black orange ) Q3 - MPSA44 NPN transistor P5 - 50 K ohm, .12W potentiometer (top adjust) ( ok to solder on top of board ) Q4 - MPSA44 NPN transistor R13 - 10 K ohm resistor ( brown black orange ) R31 - 10 K ohm resistor ( brown black orange ) R34 - 10 K ohm resistor ( brown black orange ) R5 - 4.7 K ohm resistor ( yellow purple red ) R11 - 4.7 K ohm resistor ( yellow purple red ) R7 - 4.7 K ohm resistor ( yellow purple red ) R12 - 4.7 K ohm resistor ( yellow purple red ) C11 - .1 u F ( 104 ) capacitor (If you can make it work, use the 1,000uF, 6.3 Volt cap instead) C222 - (the one next to U4) .1 u F ( 104 ) capacitor C33 - .1 u F ( 104 ) capacitor C44 - .1 u F ( 104 ) capacitor C55 - .1 u F ( 104 ) capacitor (use the 1,000 uF 6.3 V electrolytic if possible) U5 - 8 pin IC socket NOTE ORIENTATION R25 - 47K ohm resistor ( yellow purple orange ) R22- 47K ohm resistor ( yellow purple orange ) U4 - 8 pin IC socket NOTE ORIENTATION R24 - 47K ohm resistor ( yellow purple orange ) R23 - 47K ohm resistor ( yellow purple orange ) U6 - 8 pin IC socket NOTE ORIENTATION U3 - 20 pin IC socket NOTE ORIENTATION D77 - 1N4001 diode X1 - 20 MHZ Crystal ( XTAL ) not necessary to push it in tight , just snug ( may be 1/8” above the board ) solder a small jumper wire from the hole above pin 28 on the big IC to the hole above it ( the two holes right next to C55) marked "V1" V1 ___ 1 |O|O 3 2 |O|O 4 U1 - 28 pin IC socket R20 - 2.2 K ohm resistor ( red red red ) R21 - 2.2 K ohm resistor ( red red red ) R18 - 2.2 K ohm resistor ( red red red ) S1 - tactile pushbutton switch ( fast set ) S2 - tactile pushbutton switch ( slow set ) R Filament (next to S3 and B1) For a DG7/32 between 10 - 15 ohm, 2 W resistor (varies). For a 2BP1 - 0 - 10 ohm, 2W This can be different depending on the individual crt, some experimenting may be necessary to find the optimal value. Part 4 continuity test Please use an ohmmeter to test for continuity between : U5 - pin 1 & GND ( middle lead on 7805 regulator ) U5 - pin 2 & pin 7 on U6 U5 - pin 3 & pin 6 on U6 U5- pin 4 & GND U5 - pin 5 & R10 U5 - pin 6 & R25 U5 - pin 8 & R26 U4 - pin 1 & pin 1 on U5 U4 - pin 2 & pin 2 on U6 U4 - pin 3 & pin 3 on U6 U4 - pin 4 & pin 4 on U5 U4 - pin 5 R13 U4 - pin 6 & R24 U4 - pin 8 & pin 8 on U5 U6 - pin 1 & pin 8 on U4 U6 - pin 4 & pin 27 on U1 U6 - pin 5 & 2nd hole to the right of C55 ( or the corresponding pin on J1 small 4 pin jumper ) U6 - pin 8 & GND U3 - pin 1 & GND U3 pin 2 & pin 1 on U6 U3 - pin 4 & R9 U3 - pin 5 & GND U3 - pin 6 & pin 24 on U1 U3 - pin 7 & pin 18 on U1 U3 - pin 8 & pin 17 on U1 U3 - pin 9 & pin 16 on U1 U3 - pin 10 & pin 15 on U1 U3 - pin 11 & pin 14 on U1 U3 - pin 12 & pin 13 on U1 U3 - pin 13 & pin 12 on U1 U3 - pin 14 & pin 11 on U1 U3 pin 15 & GND U3 - pin 16 & pin 21 on U1 U3 - pin 17 & D77 (anode) U3 - pin 18 & R31 U3 - pin 20 & D77 U1 - pin 1 & R18 U1 - pin 8 & GND U1 pin 9 & XTAL ( side next to X1 ) U1 - pin 10 & XTAL U1 - pin 19 & GND U1 - pin 20 & D77 (cathode) U1 - pin 22 & R20 U1 - pin 23 & R21 U1 - pin 25 & collector of Q8 U1 - pin 26 & base of Q11 U1 - pin 27 & S3 ( side closer to ‘3’ ) U1 - pin 28 & R33 If this all checks out , proceed to solder wires for the crt from the board to the socket . PART 5 , wire from the board to the crt socket : Use 20 gauge wire , 8 “ lengths , ( or longer depending on where you want to mount crt , it will work ok with lengths of 12” ) Solder a black insulation wire to K ( next to Q10 ) Yellow ins. Wire to F ( in front of P1 ) & wiper of P1 Red Ins. Wire to A & wiper of P2 Blue ins. Wire to G (next to Neon bulb) White wire to X1 Grey wire to X2 Green wire to Y1 Brown wire to Y2 Black with stripe to f (near to R1) Red with stripe to f For a DG7/32 crt: Solder the wires to the crt socket : Black with stripe to pin 1 ( filament )(f) Blue to pin 2 ( grid or G1 ) (G) Black to pin 3 ( Kathode or K ) (K) Yellow to pin 4 ( Focus or G3 )(F) Brown to pin 6 ( D1 ) (Y2) Green to pin 7 ( D1” ) (Y1) Red to pin 8 ( A , g2 , g4 ) (A) Grey to pin 9 ( D2 ) (X2) White to pin 10 ( D2” ) (X1) Red with stripe to pin 12 ( filament ) (f) For the DG7-32, R1 & R4 = 330K, R6 & R8 = 220K 6Lo1i pinout: pin1. Black with stripe to pin 1 ( filament ), connects to "f" on the board next to D1 pin 2. Black ( Kathode or K ) - Kathode, connects to "K" on the board pin 3. Blue ( grid or G1 ) - grid, connects to "G" on the board next to D4 pin 4. - Yellow to pin 4 ( Focus or G3 ) Focus connects to "F" on the board (wiper of P1) pin 7. - Grey - X2, connects to "X2" on the board, next to R4 pin 8. -White to X1, connects to "X1" on the board next to R1 pin 9. - Red- Anode, connects to "A" on the board (wiper of P2) pin 10. - Green to Y1, connects to "Y1" on the board next to R6 pin 11. - Brown to Y2, connects to "Y2" on the board next to R8 pin 14. - Red w/ stripe - filament, connects to "f" on the board next to the other "f" For the 6Lo1i, R99 & R4 = 220K, R6 & R8 = 180K Part 6 - bringing the crt to life Ok now you should be ready to fire up that crt , set P1 - P5 in the middle position of their adjustment . Now set P7 (side adjust) all the way to the left (counter clockwise), set P6 (side adjust) all the way right (clockwise). Use a short piece of hookup wire that will fit snugly in the IC socket 's pin sockets , and connect pin # 28 on U1 to pin # 20 on U1. Use another jumper wire to connect pin #8 and #26 on U1. Plug in the AC power cord and in a few minutes, hopefully you will begin to see a blob or dot in about the middle of the screen. Adjust P1 until the spot is as round as it can get. Adjust P2 until it is as sharp as it can get . Readjust P1 Unplug the cord . Now plug in the two IC’s marked “4132“ into the sockets U5 & U4, being careful to NOTE the orientation (the notch should be "up", or towards the middle of the board) Plug the AC power cord back in. Adjust P6 & P7 (side adjust) to their middle positions . You should see the spot again , center it & readjust P1 & P2 for the best focus / roundest spot . Now unplug the power cord , and insert the IC marked 12f629 into socket U6. Plug power cord back in, and when the spot reappears, watch for it to move a slight bit left / right up / down. This means the shifter is working. Unplug the power again , and insert the chip marked "7528" ( 20 pin ) into U3, noting the proper orientation, and the biggest chip marked 18f26K20 into U1. Power up again, & this time push S2 once, now you should see the clock face. Adjust P4 & P5 to the desired size, then readjust P1 & P2 to the best possible focus.